The Workflow
What follows is my approach to creating time lapse video using Lightroom and Panolapse. You may find you prefer another route and so develop your own workflow. All I am attempting to do is to illustrate what works for me in the hope that it provides a little insight. By all means get in touch to criticise, suggest improvements or just to ask for clarification. Use the Contact form.
Stages
1. Shoot your images in RAW format.
A RAW file is an uncompressed image file containing all the data captured by your camera. This gives you maximum scope when editing because you still have all the data available to you. If you choose to shoot JPEG you will be hampering your efforts from the start. This is because the in-camera compression process removes large amounts of data which you can never recover. Give yourself the best possible opportunity to produce the video you originally imagined and shoot RAW. In any case, since Lightroom is one of the best RAW file editors on the market and is integral to this workflow I strongly advocate shooting RAW.
A RAW file is an uncompressed image file containing all the data captured by your camera. This gives you maximum scope when editing because you still have all the data available to you. If you choose to shoot JPEG you will be hampering your efforts from the start. This is because the in-camera compression process removes large amounts of data which you can never recover. Give yourself the best possible opportunity to produce the video you originally imagined and shoot RAW. In any case, since Lightroom is one of the best RAW file editors on the market and is integral to this workflow I strongly advocate shooting RAW.
2. Import images into Lightroom.
Use "Stage 1" as the location. Ensure you have the "Sort" option (bottom right of the Lightroom window) set to "Capture Time". This ensures the images are imported in chronological order. This is important because, depending upon how your camera stores and names files, you can find images are imported in file name order and not chronologically. For example, some cameras will open a new file after 1000 images have been taken. So if you are doing more than one time lapse sequence you may find you have files in different folders on your memory card. |
3. Process the first image in the sequence.
Crop your image using the 16:9 aspect ratio preset. This aspect ratio corresponds to that of most modern TVs and computer screens. It means the final video is likely to display better on playback. Play close attention to how you position the crop. It may require a slight compromise between maximising the composition and keeping the movement you want in the scene.
Don't be tempted to use the "Spot Removal" function to get rid of sensor spots. It works brilliantly for still photography but remember, you are concerned with capturing movement. In those parts of the scene where there is movement, particularly in skies, the "Spot Removal" function will actually lead to different coloured spots appearing in the final video. This happens because the pixel values at the original and replacement locations will be constantly changing in relation to each other. For example, it may be that in your first frame the sensor spot you wish to remove is positioned in clear blue sky. Lightroom will "remove" the spot by cloning suitable near-by pixels. Now imagine a frame further into your image sequence. The sensor spot is now covered by cloud but the source location for the cloned pixels is still in clear blue sky or in a different coloured bit of cloud. Instead of near identical pixels being cloned you find completely different pixels being used. Repeat this problem many times over perhaps, even a hundred or so frames, and you can see what a problem it causes. There is a simple solution; get your sensor cleaned.
Crop your image using the 16:9 aspect ratio preset. This aspect ratio corresponds to that of most modern TVs and computer screens. It means the final video is likely to display better on playback. Play close attention to how you position the crop. It may require a slight compromise between maximising the composition and keeping the movement you want in the scene.
Don't be tempted to use the "Spot Removal" function to get rid of sensor spots. It works brilliantly for still photography but remember, you are concerned with capturing movement. In those parts of the scene where there is movement, particularly in skies, the "Spot Removal" function will actually lead to different coloured spots appearing in the final video. This happens because the pixel values at the original and replacement locations will be constantly changing in relation to each other. For example, it may be that in your first frame the sensor spot you wish to remove is positioned in clear blue sky. Lightroom will "remove" the spot by cloning suitable near-by pixels. Now imagine a frame further into your image sequence. The sensor spot is now covered by cloud but the source location for the cloned pixels is still in clear blue sky or in a different coloured bit of cloud. Instead of near identical pixels being cloned you find completely different pixels being used. Repeat this problem many times over perhaps, even a hundred or so frames, and you can see what a problem it causes. There is a simple solution; get your sensor cleaned.
4. Synchronize the settings across all the images in your sequence.
In the Lightroom Develop Module click "Edit" then "Select All". Now click "Sync" to transfer the settings you applied to the first image to all the others. A "Synchronize Settings" window will open. Ensure all the boxes are checked then click "Synchronize" It should only take a few seconds for Lightroom to do this.
In the Lightroom Develop Module click "Edit" then "Select All". Now click "Sync" to transfer the settings you applied to the first image to all the others. A "Synchronize Settings" window will open. Ensure all the boxes are checked then click "Synchronize" It should only take a few seconds for Lightroom to do this.
5. Process the last image
This may seem counter intuitive having just "synched" all the images but you need to do this to allow Panolapse to smooth the transitions throughout the image sequence. Don't change the crop. Just adjust the other settings until you are happy.
This may seem counter intuitive having just "synched" all the images but you need to do this to allow Panolapse to smooth the transitions throughout the image sequence. Don't change the crop. Just adjust the other settings until you are happy.
6. Save the Metadata
Ensure all images are still selected. In the Lightroom Develop Module click "Photo" followed by "Save Metadata to File". A warning will appear telling you how the data will be saved. Click "Continue".
Ensure all images are still selected. In the Lightroom Develop Module click "Photo" followed by "Save Metadata to File". A warning will appear telling you how the data will be saved. Click "Continue".
7. Interpolate the metadata values using Panolapse RAW Blend
Open Panolapse and then click "Launch RAWBlend". A second window will open. Click on "Import Image Sequence" and navigate to the images in the folder called "Stage 1". Select all the images in the sequence and click "Open". Data relating to your image sequence should now appear in this second window.
Open Panolapse and then click "Launch RAWBlend". A second window will open. Click on "Import Image Sequence" and navigate to the images in the folder called "Stage 1". Select all the images in the sequence and click "Open". Data relating to your image sequence should now appear in this second window.
8. Set Your Keyframes
Check the tick boxes for the first and last frames. Very quickly you should see new data for all the other images in your sequence filling the boxes on the grid. This data is the newly interpolated data provided to smooth the transitions between your images. 9. Save the Metadata
Still in Panolapse RAWBlend click on "Save All Metadata". This may take a minute or two to complete. You can see how long it is going to take by watching the progress bar which is located near the top of the window. |
10. Read the Metadata
Return to Lightroom and in the "Develop Module" click on "Photo" then "Read Metadata From File". This should only take a few seconds to complete.
Return to Lightroom and in the "Develop Module" click on "Photo" then "Read Metadata From File". This should only take a few seconds to complete.
11. Export Your Images as JPEGs
Ensure all of the images are selected. Then go to "File" followed by "Export". A new window should open where you can enter the export settings. The first thing to do here is to set the "Export Location". Ensure the "Export To" drop down menu is set to "Specific Folder". Then click on "Choose" and navigate to the folder called "Stage 2" (see above). Leave everything else in this window unchecked except perhaps "Output Sharpening" which should be set at "Screen" and "Amount" as "Standard". Once you are happy you have things as you wish click "Export" at the bottom of the window.
This process could take some considerable time to complete. Just how long will depend upon the specification of your computer and the number and data size of the images you are exporting. It could easily take 45 minutes, or (much) more.
Ensure all of the images are selected. Then go to "File" followed by "Export". A new window should open where you can enter the export settings. The first thing to do here is to set the "Export Location". Ensure the "Export To" drop down menu is set to "Specific Folder". Then click on "Choose" and navigate to the folder called "Stage 2" (see above). Leave everything else in this window unchecked except perhaps "Output Sharpening" which should be set at "Screen" and "Amount" as "Standard". Once you are happy you have things as you wish click "Export" at the bottom of the window.
This process could take some considerable time to complete. Just how long will depend upon the specification of your computer and the number and data size of the images you are exporting. It could easily take 45 minutes, or (much) more.
12. De-flicker your Image Sequence
Return to Panolapse and click on "Import Photos to Panolapse". An "Import Image Sequence" window will open. Navigate to the JPEG files now stored in the folder called "Stage 2". Select them all and click on "Open". This may take a moment or two to complete. A "Lens Settings" window will open. The "focal length" and "crop factor" settings should be detected automatically by the software. Use the drop down menu to choose your lens type. Once you are happy click "Done". The main window will now open. Here you can determine the main settings you wish to apply to your time lapse. You can introduce "Pan", "Tilt" and "Roll" to the final video either by entering values in line 1 or by physically dragging the image around. Should you choose the latter you will see values being entered into line 1. Should you wish to introduce some "Zoom" into the final video click the "Enable Zoom" box and under "Focal Length" enter values for the first and last images in the sequence. To zoom in, enter the low value in line 1 and the high value in the last line. The opposite applies if you wish to zoom out. |
Once you are happy with the settings click on "Export Frames". An "Export" window will now open. The "Export Settings" for Width and Height should be detected automatically. Change the other settings as you see fit but remember to tick the "Deflicker" box. Click on "Browse" and navigate to the folder called "Stage 3". This is where the de-flickered images will be stored. Once you are happy click on "Queue for Render" and details of your image sequence will appear under the heading "Render Queue". Now click "Render All" and the export process and de-flickering will commence. Once more this may take some time. The more variables you have entered at the previous window, i.e. "Tilt", "Roll", "Pan" and "Zoom" the longer this process will take. Allow a minimum of 30 minutes.
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13. Import de-flickered images in to Lightroom
Go back to Lightroom and import the images now located at "Stage 3". Use the "Copy" option to import the images and choose "Stage 4" as the location for them to be stored. Ensure you only import images that now have the word "deflickered" as part of their file name. This process should take 2-3 minutes at most.
Go back to Lightroom and import the images now located at "Stage 3". Use the "Copy" option to import the images and choose "Stage 4" as the location for them to be stored. Ensure you only import images that now have the word "deflickered" as part of their file name. This process should take 2-3 minutes at most.
14. Export Images as a Video
Go to the "Slideshow" module in Lightroom. Ensure "All Filmstrip Photos" is showing as the export option in the drop down menu near the bottom of the screen. Choose one of the Lightroom templates from the list in the "Template Browser" on the left of the main image. Other templates are available and are easily downloaded and installed. Once you are happy click on "Export Video". A new window will open and you can enter details of the name of your video and where you wish it to be stored. This export process may take some time to complete. Allow at least 30 minutes.
Go to the "Slideshow" module in Lightroom. Ensure "All Filmstrip Photos" is showing as the export option in the drop down menu near the bottom of the screen. Choose one of the Lightroom templates from the list in the "Template Browser" on the left of the main image. Other templates are available and are easily downloaded and installed. Once you are happy click on "Export Video". A new window will open and you can enter details of the name of your video and where you wish it to be stored. This export process may take some time to complete. Allow at least 30 minutes.
15. Enhance the final video by adding titles, captions, music etc
Use your video editing software to add the finishing touches such as title, captions, music and various other enhancements such as frame transitions . If you don't have a video editor then "Windows Movie Maker" is available free and is easy to use. If your PC is a reasonably recent model WMM may already be installed.
Use your video editing software to add the finishing touches such as title, captions, music and various other enhancements such as frame transitions . If you don't have a video editor then "Windows Movie Maker" is available free and is easy to use. If your PC is a reasonably recent model WMM may already be installed.
16. Tidying Up
Remember to delete all the files from the various locations (Stages 1 - 4). You need to make sure they are all empty before starting on another time lapse. You may be tempted to keep your original RAW files. Just be aware of how much space they will take up on your HDD. 900 RAW files may run to several hundred Gb. Whilst external HDDs are cheaper and more cavernous in their storage capacity than ever before you will use up your storage space very quickly if you always keep your RAW files.
Remember to delete all the files from the various locations (Stages 1 - 4). You need to make sure they are all empty before starting on another time lapse. You may be tempted to keep your original RAW files. Just be aware of how much space they will take up on your HDD. 900 RAW files may run to several hundred Gb. Whilst external HDDs are cheaper and more cavernous in their storage capacity than ever before you will use up your storage space very quickly if you always keep your RAW files.